Drugstore vs. Professional skin care brands

I often get asked if there is a difference between drugstore products (e.g. Neutrogena, Oil of Olay) and professional skin care products (e.g. Jan Marini, Skinceuticals) and my answer is a big “YES!” Professional skin care companies do a lot of scientific research on all of their products, formulations, and ingredients before their products are out on the market. All of the new technology in skin care is usually founded by doctors or scientists that work for the professional skin care companies. The drugstore brands also do some research on their products, but they are usually “cheaper” imitations. That good old saying “You pay for what you get” definitely rings true when it comes to this subject. *The one big exception to this is I am not including department store brands in this, because you may pay the big prices, but you get the efficacy of a drugstore product.

The main example that I use to explain this is Vitamin C. The difference between a drugstore product that contains Vitamin C and a professional brand is going to be the molecular size of the molecule. Most likely if you were to look at the product under a microscope, you would see that the molecular size of the Vitamin C in the professional product would be smaller. This is better because the Vitamin C molecule has to travel to the receptor site, which is in the dermis (the deepest layer of the skin), in order for the skin to truly reap the benefits of the Vitamin C. If the molecule is too large it most likely will not penetrate the skin deep enough, therefore it would not be as effective. This is the same for if you were to just squeeze an orange and use the juice to put it on your face. The molecular size would be too large and you would only superficially benefit.

If you truly want to see results when it comes to treating acne, lightening pigmentation, or anti-aging, it is best to use professional skin care products. Drugstore products may feel and smell good, but most likely they will not be as effective or results oriented as a professional product. I know these days everyone is watching their pocket book, so the products that I feel are ok to purchase “over the counter” is cleanser and sunscreen (with UVA protection!). When it comes to serums or the “treatment” portion of your regiment, please don’t skimp and go for the professional brands.

Many will connect professional brands with big prices, but most of the time the professional brands are LESS EXPENSIVE than fancy department store brands. Your skin is the largest organ in your body, so take care of it properly!

Clinique Moisture Surge Review

For the last couple of years I have always “thumbed my nose” on department store skin care cosmetic brands (e.g. Lancome, Estee Lauder, Clinique), because I feel that they are overly priced and not as effective as a professional skin care product that you would only be able to buy through your Esthetician or Dermatologist. Although I still pretty much feel this way, there is one product that I have been very impressed with at that is Clinique’s Moisture Surge.

This moisturizer is great for all skin types, but it is especially great for people with sensitive, oily, or acneic skin. I also took a look at the ingredients and here are a few that I was impressed with:

*Green tea- anti-inflammatory, full of antioxidants.
*Aloe leaf water- calming/soothing
*Caffeine- tones the skin
*Sodium hyaluronate- allows the skin to take in more hydration
*Tocopherol acetate- Vitamin E

The best part about this moisturizer is that it DOES NOT CONTAIN PARABENS (chemical preservatives that have been linked to causing cancer, etc). Yay!!!

Unfortunately, it’s not perfect (like anything in life). It does contain some dyes and other ingredients that don’t necessarily need to be in it and I don’t believe that it would be enough moisture for aging skin that is extremely dry.

I’ve got a girlfriend who has extremely sensitive skin and this is one of the very few moisturizers that she can use on her skin. As for myself, I have acne prone skin and I have found that this gives me the moisture that I need, without clogging my pores and without the greasy feel.

So what is the lesson that Thy has learned? I’ve learned to not always look down on department store skin care products, but they have to prove to be damn good in order to get my seal of approval!

Bikini waxing vs. Brazilian waxing

Valentine’s Day is fast approaching and what do most people hope for? Companionship, love, and let’s not deny it…sex! One of my specialties in my line of work is doing brazilian and bikini waxes. I know it may sound strange, but I much prefer waxing the bikini area versus doing eyebrows. Most Estheticians have the opposite sentiment, but I am one of the few that enjoys giving one (and it is DEFINITELY NOT SEXUAL). I often get asked what is the difference between a bikini and brazilian wax. In honor of V Day, I will explain to those of you who have never experienced one and are curious, but too shy to ask.

Bikini wax. Basically, there are two types of bikini waxes.

The first is what I call the “Classic” bikini. Which means that I wax from where the leg creases, where the hip and leg join, to the upper mid-thigh (if needed), and the inner thigh. I do not go beyond the crease (meaning going towards the vagina), but I may take a little off of the top if requested.

The second type of bikini wax is the “Extended” bikini. The amount of hair taken off for an “Extended” bikni is a lot more vague compared to the “Classic”. The amount taken off is based on the client’s preference. It could range from just taking a little hair off from the sides and top, to almost a brazilian where there is a little landing strip, but still hair on the inner lips of the vagina.

Brazilian wax

*I just have one disclaimer and that is I do not know who invented the brazilian wax, nor do I know what are the true guidelines of a brazilian wax (because there are so many opinions out there), but I will explain to you what I do and was taught.*

The biggest difference between a brazilian and a bikini wax is that with brazilians the inner lips of the vagina are waxed, as well as the “back end” aka in between the butt cheeks.

Some women will prefer to either leave a landing strip (which is rectangular in shape), an upside down triangle, or have EVERYTHING taken off (some call it the pre-pubescent look). Most Estheticians will also do customized shapes upon request, but in my own personal experience I very seldom get asked to do it.

Common questions asked:

1) Does it hurt?

The first time for any kind of waxing in that area, will be painful (especially brazilians). For the bikini area, most clients say that eventually they get use to it and it is not as bad. For brazilians, it will get easier in time, but due to your anatomy, the inner lips is full of nerve endings, which means that it is an extremely sensitive area. Therefore, brazilian waxes will always feel uncomfortable when waxing the inner lips. Surprisingly, you would think that the “back end” would be painful, but most clients don’t feel a thing in this area.

Pain is relative to each individual, so some may experience a lot of pain and some may experience very little pain.

2) If you get a brazilian, does it make sex better?

I think this is definitely based on every individual, but most of my clients report positive feedback!

3) When is the best time to get waxed?

a) It is best to come in when you are not close to your period or just ending it. During those times you are even more sensitive, so try to book the waxing when you are a couple of weeks before or after your period.

b) Out of courtesy, please wash yourselves beforehand, but make sure to come in and to have the area as dry as possible. Coming from the gym is a bad idea. Mostly because sweat can interfere with the wax and most likely your probably not going to be so “fresh and clean” down there.

c) If you’ve got a night where you know for sure that you will be getting some “action”, try to do the wax at least the night before. After the wax you will feel tender for a few to several hours, and the area will be red and bumpy. After 24 hours, you should feel back to normal and the skin will have recuperated to being as smooth as a baby’s behind. Also, friction can cause ingrown hairs and irritation.

d) If your hair is extremely long, it is better for you to trim it down. If you are scared or don’t have time, it is not a big deal and your Esthetician will do it for you. FYI, when the hair is long, the waxing may be a little more painful, so the shorter the better, but not shorter then a quarter of an inch.

I hope this has answered any of your questions. Please feel free to contact me if you’ve got any other questions. For those of you who are interested in getting a bikini or brazilian with me, please mention that you read this article and I will give you 15% off on your next visit. To make an appointment call Spa Bar at 415.975.0888.

Happy V Day! I hope every day is Valentine’s Day for all of you!

Jan Marini’s Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF30 Review

My job is to be a skin advocate. As much as I am passionate about skin care and skin health, I am also a lover of the sun. Back in the days when I was a young teenager, I could have cared less about protecting my skin. In fact, I was so bad that my best girlfriend and I would go to the lake in the summer and our motto was “Burn Me!” We thought “no pain, no gain” and so we would lay in the sun unprotected for hours. Now, that very thought just makes me cringe! My skin a few years later showed the damage that I put upon myself. I ended up having hyperpigmentation (brown spots) on my face and body.

About four years ago, I started to get concerned about my skin and I was totally vain in the sense that I wanted to look younger than my peers. Although I am Asian, and I already do look younger than most others who are my age, I did look older compared to an Asian person who was the same age as me. So I decided to start wearing sunscreen on a daily basis. Now, four years later with the help of sunscreen, skin serums, and peels my skin is looking young, healthy and vibrant!

I’ve been using Jan Marini’s Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF30 for the last three years and I love this sunscreen! This sunscreen has UVA and UVB protection (see Sunscreen 101 article), is waterproof, it feels silky and smooth (NOT oily and greasy), offers light moisture, has a great light tropical scent, and it gives my skin a healthy sheen. My only qualm is that it does contain parabens. Another great feature about this sunscreen is that it has “microscopic sponge techonology” which entraps and absorbs unwanted materials and excess oil in the skin.

I have noticed a great change in my skin since I started to use this sunscreen. The skin on my face never burns, I am no longer noticing new pigmentation spots, and my current pigmentation spots have gotten lighter.

For those of you who love celebrity gossip (like me!), supposedly Anne Hathaway and Naomi Watts also use this sunscreen. If it’s good enough for the stars, it’s definitely good enough for you!

As a skin advocate I must say and believe that it is best to stay out of the sun as much as possible to avoid sun damage, BUT if you are a sun lover (like me) make sure that you wear sun protection at all times and reapply often!!!

For more in-depth information please go to: http://janmarini.com/AntioxidantDailyFaceProtectant.html

For those in the San Francisco area who would like to purchase Jan Marini products, it is sold at Spa Bar, 246 2^nd St., 415-975-0888. Don’t forget to tell them that Thy sent you!

Sunscreen 101

Every client that walks in my door is concerned with anti-aging. Everyone wants to slow down the aging process whether they are a man or a woman. Surprisingly, many still do not use sunscreen/sun protection on a daily basis! Sun protection is the first and foremost step one should take in protecting your skin from aging. The sun’s rays are stronger than they have ever been and the risk of getting skin cancer is growing at an alarming rate. Which is why it is vital to wear sun protection on a DAILY BASIS on your face and body.

Many of my clients will use the excuse that they don’t like to wear sunscreen on their face because it feels greasy and heavy on their face and they are worried about breaking out. Well, this can no longer be used as an excuse because there are hundreds of sunscreens out there that have wonderful lightweight, non-greasy formulas that do not clog their pores. (In future articles I will review different sunscreens-just check in on a regular basis!) What’s really important to know is that it is extremely important to look for sunscreens that have both UVA and UVB protection.

So what is the difference between the two and why is it important to have both? All sunscreens will have UVB protection. UVB stands for “Ultra Violet Burning” rays, so the SPF factor correlates with the UVB rays and the function of the sunscreen is to protect your skin from not burning. UVA stands for “Ultra Violet Aging” rays. These are the rays that everyone should be very concerned about because these are the rays that cause aging, fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation (brown spots). Not until recently have some manufacturers started to add UVA protection to sunscreens. You may be someone who wears sun protection every day, but if your sunscreen doesn’t contain UVA protection, your skin is not completely protected and you are still risking your skin from getting skin damage. How you will know if your sunscreen has both UVA and UVB protection is that it should be noted on the bottle by saying “UVA/UVB protection” or “Broad Spectrum protection”. If the bottle doesn’t mention anything, then it probably only has UVB protection and not UVA protection.

I personally recommend that when you purchase a sunscreen, you should get a minimum of SPF 30, especially if you have fair skin. The higher you go in SPF just means that you can wait a little longer before you have to re-apply. Even on cloudy days or if you are indoors all day it is still a good idea to wear sun protection because the suns rays, especially the UVA rays, can still penetrate through the clouds and through glass windows.

Many clients also say that their way of protecting their skin is through the makeup that they use (such as foundation, concealer, etc.). I give them kudos for trying to protect their skin, but usually makeup formulations don’t have enough protection in them to completely protect the skin and most likely they probably don’t have UVA protection added. I always think that it is a good idea to have protection in your makeup, but to use sunscreen separately.

Most importantly sunscreen is a way of protecting yourself from getting skin cancer, but if you are really concerned with aging, this is the most simple and best thing you can do for your skin. It may take time for you to find a formula that works well with your skin, but hang in there because your skin will reap the benefits.

How Martha stays healthy and young

I am not ashamed to admit it. I am a HUGE Martha Stewart fan! Martha recently shared with her fans her secret to looking good and being healthy. Guess what was number 1 on her list? SKIN CARE! Here's what she had to say about it:

"SKIN CARE: Skin care is vital, and my routine includes a thorough cleansing every morning and night. Toners, enriching day and night creams, and serums keep my skin elastic and supple and glowing. Sunblocks, balms and skin healers are also necessary as preventive treatments."

I don't know about you, but I think Martha looks fabulous. The proof is in the pudding folks!

Product Review: Hovan's Medi Cream

Nasty ingrowns? There is nothing more painful, annoying, and aesthetically displeasing than ingrown hair. I also suffered from these nasty buggers, until NOW! I have tried many other brands that claim to get rid of ingrown hair and the only formula that has truly worked for me is Hovan's Medi Cream. This formula contains Pineapple enzymes to slough away dead skin cells and to soothe irritated skin, the natural antibacterial ingredient tea tree oil to protect against bacterial infections, and Vitamin A to help with cellular regeneration and to promote the growth of healthy skin tissue. This formula has a pleasant light scent and there are emollients to keep your skin smooth and soft.

Directions for recommended use:
For MILD CONDITIONS use daily.
For SEVERE CONDITIONS use morning and night for 2 weeks and after once daily.

For more information visit: www.hovanssale.com

Skin care 101

Your skin is the largest organ in your body. Even though we are in 2009, where beauty products, especially skin care, is a billion dollar industry, I still get a lot of clients coming in to see me who still use bar soap on their face and body moisturizer as facial lotion. Many men, including heterosexual men, are starting to realize the importance of taking care of their skin, but there are still many men and surprisingly, women who still don’t know how to properly take care of their skin. For those of you who need a reminder or have no clue about basic skincare, I will lay out the “bare basics” to make your job easier. Please keep in mind that professional skincare products will have better formulations than drugstore or supermarket brands, which will make them more effective and products without any chemical ingredients or parabens (chemical preservatives) will be better for your skin.

To be used on a daily basis:

1) Facial cleanser (AM & PM)

The importance of cleanser is that it is supposed to leave your face clear of dirt and oil, but it is not supposed to strip the moisture away from your face. It is very important that your skin obtains it’s natural moisture barrier (aka NMB) to protect your skin from irritation, inflammation and infection. There are many types of cleansers out there, most of them are designed for your specific skin type (e.g. dry, oily, combination) or your skin condition (e.g. acne, aging, sensitive). Another thing to consider is the strength of the cleanser can vary from gentle to exfoliating.

2) Facial moisturizer (AM & PM)

Keeping your skin moisturized is vital for healthy skin. When your skin is hydrated it will physically look more plump and smooth, which results in radiant and younger looking skin. Even those with oily and/or acne prone skin, it is very important to keep moisture in the skin, if the skin does not have enough hydration it may go into “freak out” mode and over produce oil, which may result in worsening your skin condition. Moisturizers are also based on either skin type or skin condition. They will also vary from lightweight gels to heavy creams.

3) Sunscreen (AM only)

I do not know one person who is not concerned with anti-aging. Everyone wants to keep a youthful appearance and the number one thing you can do to protect your skin from aging is to wear sunscreen on your face daily. Over 90% of aging is due to sun damage and the rest may be due to intrinsic factors (age, heredity, etc.). The sun’s rays are at the strongest that they have ever been and the rate of skin cancer is on the rise. The best type of sunscreen to look for is one that will protect you from both UVA and UVB rays. All sunscreens have UVB protection, but before you purchase, make sure there is also UVA “broad spectrum” protection. For those of you who say that you don’t like to wear sunscreen because it makes your skin greasy or you don’t like the texture, there are many formulations out there that are not heavy and greasy. You just need to take the time to try out different ones until you find one that works for you. Also, even if you are indoors all day or if the weather is overcast, you still should wear sunscreen because the UVA rays can still penetrate through windows and the clouds.

4) Drink lots of water!

It may be cliché, but it is absolutely true that water will make your skin healthier. We all hate it when supermodels say their secret to beauty is drinking lots of water, but the matter of fact is it really works. Why? Because water flushes out all of the toxins in the body and usually whatever ailment you have within your body, will show up on your skin too. Water allows for flow in the body so that nutrients are easily absorbed into your skin cells and the hydration will plump up your skin and it will prevent dryness in the skin.

Do 1-3 times per week:

1) Exfoliate

Exfoliation is key to healthy and youthful looking skin. The best way to exfoliate your skin is by using either a chemical or mechanical exfoliant. The difference between a chemical and a mechical exfoliant is that mechanical exfoliants slough away dead skin cells by having to physically manipulate the product, which is usually in a cream form with beads in it or microdermabrasion. A chemical exfoliant will usually “eat away” at the dead skin cells without having to do any type of manual labor and is usually in a peel or mask form. By exfoliating the skin on a regular basis, you are allowing the skin to renew and regenerate itself faster, which results in younger looking skin. Also, if you are acne prone, exfoliating on a regular basis allows more oxygen into your skin and oxygen is what kills the p.acne bacteria that causes acne. If you are going to purchase a mechanical exfoliant stay away from anything that uses walnut, apricot, or any type of shell pieces, for example do NOT use St. Ives Apricot scrub!!! To make it simple, the apricot shells are microscopically extremely sharp and will tear at your skin tissue causing damage and inflammation. If you are using St. Ives, stop using it on your face and use it for your elbows and soles of your feet. Try to exfoliate your skin at least once a week, but no more than three times per week (there is such a thing as overexfoliating).

Do every 4 weeks:

1) Get a facial from a licensed Esthetician.

Facials are vital for healthy looking skin for many reasons. Everyone by the age of sixteen will have sun damage on their face, whether it is by means of pigmentation, fine lines, and/or wrinkles. Estheticians are not doctors and if you have a serious problem, you should see a Dermatologist, but we can help with superficial issues in the skin. Another main reason for coming in for a facial is that everyone’s skin gets congested with impacted sebum and it is important to clean out these impurities before they form into acne or cause damage in your follicles (aka pores). Estheticians can help with a variety of issues and every person’s skin has to be dealt with individually, because everyone’s skin is different. Facials will help optimize your skin’s potential to be at it’s healthiest.

Do annually:

1) Make sure that you get a “mole check” when you go in to see your Dermatologist, Physician or OB/GYN to make sure that you don’t have any cancerous lesions.

E voila! These are just the most basic steps that you can take to healthier skin. There are definitely more things that you could add to your skin care regimen to make it more effective, but these are the “bare basics” that one should not live without. I always tell my clients that in order for them to have beautiful and healthy skin, 50% is what happens in the facial treatment room and the other 50% is what they use on their skin at home on a daily basis. Your skin is the largest organ, so do yourself a favor and take good care of it!