Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Drugstore vs. Professional skin care brands

I often get asked if there is a difference between drugstore products (e.g. Neutrogena, Oil of Olay) and professional skin care products (e.g. Jan Marini, Skinceuticals) and my answer is a big “YES!” Professional skin care companies do a lot of scientific research on all of their products, formulations, and ingredients before their products are out on the market. All of the new technology in skin care is usually founded by doctors or scientists that work for the professional skin care companies. The drugstore brands also do some research on their products, but they are usually “cheaper” imitations. That good old saying “You pay for what you get” definitely rings true when it comes to this subject. *The one big exception to this is I am not including department store brands in this, because you may pay the big prices, but you get the efficacy of a drugstore product.

The main example that I use to explain this is Vitamin C. The difference between a drugstore product that contains Vitamin C and a professional brand is going to be the molecular size of the molecule. Most likely if you were to look at the product under a microscope, you would see that the molecular size of the Vitamin C in the professional product would be smaller. This is better because the Vitamin C molecule has to travel to the receptor site, which is in the dermis (the deepest layer of the skin), in order for the skin to truly reap the benefits of the Vitamin C. If the molecule is too large it most likely will not penetrate the skin deep enough, therefore it would not be as effective. This is the same for if you were to just squeeze an orange and use the juice to put it on your face. The molecular size would be too large and you would only superficially benefit.

If you truly want to see results when it comes to treating acne, lightening pigmentation, or anti-aging, it is best to use professional skin care products. Drugstore products may feel and smell good, but most likely they will not be as effective or results oriented as a professional product. I know these days everyone is watching their pocket book, so the products that I feel are ok to purchase “over the counter” is cleanser and sunscreen (with UVA protection!). When it comes to serums or the “treatment” portion of your regiment, please don’t skimp and go for the professional brands.

Many will connect professional brands with big prices, but most of the time the professional brands are LESS EXPENSIVE than fancy department store brands. Your skin is the largest organ in your body, so take care of it properly!

Friday, February 6, 2009

Clinique Moisture Surge Review




For the last couple of years I have always “thumbed my nose” on department store skin care cosmetic brands (e.g. Lancome, Estee Lauder, Clinique), because I feel that they are overly priced and not as effective as a professional skin care product that you would only be able to buy through your Esthetician or Dermatologist. Although I still pretty much feel this way, there is one product that I have been very impressed with at that is Clinique’s Moisture Surge.

This moisturizer is great for all skin types, but it is especially great for people with sensitive, oily, or acneic skin. I also took a look at the ingredients and here are a few that I was impressed with:

*Green tea- anti-inflammatory, full of antioxidants.
*Aloe leaf water- calming/soothing
*Caffeine- tones the skin
*Sodium hyaluronate- allows the skin to take in more hydration
*Tocopherol acetate- Vitamin E

The best part about this moisturizer is that it DOES NOT CONTAIN PARABENS (chemical preservatives that have been linked to causing cancer, etc). Yay!!!

Unfortunately, it’s not perfect (like anything in life). It does contain some dyes and other ingredients that don’t necessarily need to be in it and I don’t believe that it would be enough moisture for aging skin that is extremely dry.

I’ve got a girlfriend who has extremely sensitive skin and this is one of the very few moisturizers that she can use on her skin. As for myself, I have acne prone skin and I have found that this gives me the moisture that I need, without clogging my pores and without the greasy feel.

So what is the lesson that Thy has learned? I’ve learned to not always look down on department store skin care products, but they have to prove to be damn good in order to get my seal of approval!

Monday, February 2, 2009

Bikini waxing vs. Brazilian waxing









Valentine’s Day is fast approaching and what do most people hope for? Companionship, love, and let’s not deny it…sex! One of my specialties in my line of work is doing brazilian and bikini waxes. I know it may sound strange, but I much prefer waxing the bikini area versus doing eyebrows. Most Estheticians have the opposite sentiment, but I am one of the few that enjoys giving one (and it is DEFINITELY NOT SEXUAL). I often get asked what is the difference between a bikini and brazilian wax. In honor of V Day, I will explain to those of you who have never experienced one and are curious, but too shy to ask.

Bikini wax. Basically, there are two types of bikini waxes.

The first is what I call the “Classic” bikini. Which means that I wax from where the leg creases, where the hip and leg join, to the upper mid-thigh (if needed), and the inner thigh. I do not go beyond the crease (meaning going towards the vagina), but I may take a little off of the top if requested.

The second type of bikini wax is the “Extended” bikini. The amount of hair taken off for an “Extended” bikni is a lot more vague compared to the “Classic”. The amount taken off is based on the client’s preference. It could range from just taking a little hair off from the sides and top, to almost a brazilian where there is a little landing strip, but still hair on the inner lips of the vagina.

Brazilian wax


*I just have one disclaimer and that is I do not know who invented the brazilian wax, nor do I know what are the true guidelines of a brazilian wax (because there are so many opinions out there), but I will explain to you what I do and was taught.*

The biggest difference between a brazilian and a bikini wax is that with brazilians the inner lips of the vagina are waxed, as well as the “back end” aka in between the butt cheeks.

Some women will prefer to either leave a landing strip (which is rectangular in shape), an upside down triangle, or have EVERYTHING taken off (some call it the pre-pubescent look). Most Estheticians will also do customized shapes upon request, but in my own personal experience I very seldom get asked to do it.

Common questions asked:


1) Does it hurt?

The first time for any kind of waxing in that area, will be painful (especially brazilians). For the bikini area, most clients say that eventually they get use to it and it is not as bad. For brazilians, it will get easier in time, but due to your anatomy, the inner lips is full of nerve endings, which means that it is an extremely sensitive area. Therefore, brazilian waxes will always feel uncomfortable when waxing the inner lips. Surprisingly, you would think that the “back end” would be painful, but most clients don’t feel a thing in this area.

Pain is relative to each individual, so some may experience a lot of pain and some may experience very little pain.

2) If you get a brazilian, does it make sex better?

I think this is definitely based on every individual, but most of my clients report positive feedback!

3) When is the best time to get waxed?

a) It is best to come in when you are not close to your period or just ending it. During those times you are even more sensitive, so try to book the waxing when you are a couple of weeks before or after your period.

b) Out of courtesy, please wash yourselves beforehand, but make sure to come in and to have the area as dry as possible. Coming from the gym is a bad idea. Mostly because sweat can interfere with the wax and most likely your probably not going to be so “fresh and clean” down there.

c) If you’ve got a night where you know for sure that you will be getting some “action”, try to do the wax at least the night before. After the wax you will feel tender for a few to several hours, and the area will be red and bumpy. After 24 hours, you should feel back to normal and the skin will have recuperated to being as smooth as a baby’s behind. Also, friction can cause ingrown hairs and irritation.

d) If your hair is extremely long, it is better for you to trim it down. If you are scared or don’t have time, it is not a big deal and your Esthetician will do it for you. FYI, when the hair is long, the waxing may be a little more painful, so the shorter the better, but not shorter then a quarter of an inch.

I hope this has answered any of your questions. Please feel free to contact me if you’ve got any other questions. For those of you who are interested in getting a bikini or brazilian with me, please mention that you read this article and I will give you 15% off on your next visit. To make an appointment call Spa Bar at 415.975.0888.

Happy V Day! I hope every day is Valentine’s Day for all of you!